How to become a rider:
Below is some helpful information about how to get involved with the team as a rider. If you are serious about becoming a rider read through it completely.
If you have any questions please feel free to ask by clicking HERE
Thanks and good luck!!!
We want to help!
Our team has based a lot of its success off of recruiting and training our own riders from around the region. A lot of our riders are home-grown and though we encourage young riders to be a part of the team, it is not a requirement.
We will gladly lend whatever help we can as a company to contribute to your success, even if you don't want to be a part of the team. Please feel free to contact us at anytime if you have questions about how to get involved, where to shop, what to
buy, or even where to ride.
BMX, SKATEBOARD, FMX:
For those of you who are interested in becoming a BMX, Skateboard, or FMX rider with the team please call to set-up an
appointment where we can meet and go over what you can expect from becoming a member. Please have 5-10 pictures or
a short video when you call so we can get a look at you in action. We are always looking so don't be affraid to let us know
you're out there. We frequently use BMX, FMX , and skateboarding at our shows and all rider positions are paid.
Additionally we can help you financially by providing you with small parts and gear that you may need to move ahead.
Team membership is a great way to get some exposure and show off your skills infront of thousands of fans.
Use the "CONTACT US" tab above to get in touch with team management.
THANKS AND WE LOOK FORWARD TO MEETING YOU!!!
STREETBIKE STUNT RIDERS:
What do you need to do first?
Well, You need a bike. No, not your streetbike that you still owe $7,000 on. You need a stuntbike.
What makes a stunt bike?
1. Preferably, a bike that you own outright, or owe very little on.
2. A bike thats semi-modern, not a 1993 Honda shadow (although that would be kinda cool)
- Fuel Injection is ideal, but not necessarily a requirement
- We'd recommend bikes like Honda F4i's, Kawi 636's, 6OOrr's, ZX-6s, Honda 929's, or even GSXR 6's
- These are common stunt bikes and aftermarket parts are easy to get
- These bikes have been widely used and have proven to be durable
3. A bike that you dont need to worry about beating on a bit. When you're learning the sport, mint condition fairings
and after market gadets are just a pain to deal with, and if you ask any stunt rider they'll tell you- YOU WILL WRECK!!! The last thing you want on your bike when you slam it into the pavement is $2000 worth of plastics.
TAKE THOSE PLASTICS OFF!!!!
You can put them back on when you're riding in your own TV show.
.
4. Get something you can be comfortable on for hours on end. Its not uncommon to practice for 6-8 hours in a day
during the season. Get something that will last a while. Switching bikes all the time can delay your
ability to improve because you're always trying to get used to a new bike.
Don't buy the first $200 dollar bike you see, odds are you're going to get what you pay for.
Also, owner TITLES are optional, you don't necessarily need a bike thats street legal. We do not encourage buying stolen
property. However, if you don't ride on public streets, and stay on private property, it is not illegal to own a bike without
a title.... in Colorado. BUT YOU NEED TO STAY OFF THE STREETS IF YOU DON'T HAVE A TITLE!!!
A bike with no VIN, nor registration, is a great way to have your ride impounded, and probably be investigated for
possessing stolen property. You need to be smart.
We can help you find a bike if you're serious about getting into the sport. We find
used and wrecked streetbikes all the time and have the ability to purchase at
significantly cheaper prices, not only with the bike itself, but with parts and other
things you'll need to get set-up.
So you have your bike, now what?
Well, now you're ready to set it up. This means getting parts like crash cages, 12 bars, etc. Further down the road you
may want gearing, clip-ons, handbrakes, and rear-sets. This is expensive stuff. The initial set up on a stunt bike can
run into the thousands without sponsorship or help.
Items like crash cages and 12 bars should not be taken for granted. These pieces are the life line of a stunt bike and
even though they are some of the most expensive items, they will pay themselves off the first time you lay your bike
down. Covers, flywheels, crankshats, frames, and motors are way more expensive than cages and bars.
GET A CAGE ON THE BIKE BEFORE YOU GO OUT - it only takes 1 crash.
Though expensive, this set up is crucial. But again, for those who are willing to
take the sport seriously, the team can cut the prices for set-up in half, and provide
vital set-up techniques to make sure everything is done correctly. The team
carries sponsorships from some of the industry's top manufacturers and local
businesses. Your commitment is the key.
***NEW RIDERS***
Stop worrying about what size sprocket to use or what
kind of tires to run. A SPROCKET DOES NOT MAKE YOU A BETTER STUNTER -
PRACTICE DOES. Many great riders have learned this sport on stock gearing with
only minor modifications to their bikes. There is no part in the world
that will teach you how to use idle, or that can automatically dip into a circle.
These are things you have to learn BEFORE a sprocket or tire will even be an
issue. Your bike is only as good as the rider who is on it. SO GO RIDE!!!
Below, we've listed things that young riders should under no
circumstances worry about, until they learn how to use a rear brake and slow wheelies down (this means 5 - 10 mph. 25 mph is not slow)
-Sprocket size -use whatever you have on there right now, its the perfect size. Yes even that
one.Regardless of what anyone tells you, if your bike is newer than 1997, it has plenty of power
to do a wheelie on stock gearing. "But it won't do a wheelie" - Sorry, its rider error, not gearing.
-Chains - the kind that stays on the bike is best, stock ones are good for that.
-Handbrake set-up - stunt with your feet first, then see how easy it is with your hands
-Clip-on types - lets face it, you don't really know why your asking this, so lets skip it.
-Exhausts - "Chopped" is the only kind we recommend
-Intakes - If you think an air filter or velocity stack is keeping you from doing a wheelie
you have another thing coming. Don't waste your money.
-Tire size , type, or brand - Rubber, with tread, at 15-20 psi. Thats all you need for now.
-Power Commanders - Unplug it, put it back in the box, and sell it to your buddy.
THE BEST MODIFICATIONS YOU CAN DO ARE WITH THE RIDER, NOT THE BIKE.
TUNE-UP THE RIDER AND THE BIKE WILL RIDE BETTER. NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND.
Ready to ride?
So you got your bike, your cage, and your 12 bar . Now its time to hit the lots.
So where do you start? Where do you ride?
The team works hard to keep practice spots that we can use regularly. These locations are not usually made public. This is due to the common irresponsible behavior of young riders. If you need a place to ride call us and we can suggest some spots. However, until we feel that you're serious and that you will ride responsibly, you will likely need to find your own practice
spots. We are definitely willing to come to you and lend coaching tips. Just call us and we can
come meet you and get you started. Once we see you ride we can develope a comfort level with
you, which usually leads to an invitation to our regular practice spots.
OUR TRAINING METHOD
The training for new members is simple. At least for the veteran riders it seems simple. We are going to teach you the
opposite way we learned. Instead of working your way from two wheels to one, we start on one and work our way to
two. Why's that? It will usually take someone 3 months to get really comfortable on a bike. If you try to learn wheelies
from 2 wheels, you might do around 3000 wheelies in that time. By starting from 2 wheels, you spend the majority of
that time trying to figure out how "high" to go. Thus, most of that 3 months is actually spent on 2 wheels,
needless to say - thats not the goal. With our method, one of our riders will put the bike on one wheel for you and park it
vertically, and you will spend most of your time getting used to how high you should go and what the bike feels
like on 1 wheel. We start by simply letting you get a feel for the weight. Then we'll have you start to "walk" it on the 12
bar. Eventually, you'll be asked to get on and off the bike while using the clutch and/or foot brake to bring it down if
necessary. Your goal now: simply get back to where your comfort zone originally was - 2 wheels. Once you're back to 2
wheels, all you need to do is clutch up. If you get too high you'll know what to do because you've already been there, and
know how to use the brake. You'll also be comfortable with the bike moving on the 12 bar, and know how to bring it down
safely. Slow speeds are the goal and even with training, this can take some practice. But, with an understanding of how
brake control actually effects the bike, you can limit the time and cost of learning the basic slow wheelie.
We've found that we can actually have someone, with no previous stunting experience at all, slowing wheelies down
and using idle within 1 week. Thats about 20 hours of actual practice time on the bike. Not bad huh?
From this point on we coach and train continuously, teaching techniques like clutch control, body movement and
steering. Some riders obviously progress faster than others. Its all about how well you absorb the coaching, and how
well you apply the tips you receive to your riding. The good news - most of our older riders have already made all
the mistakes for you, and the tips they give are based on experience, rather than speculation:
Most new riders seem to progress within the timeline below,
but again, some riders learn faster or slower than others. The fastest
we've seen riders get to a show level of performance is about 3 weeks-
-Months 1-3 - Learn slow wheelies with idle and brake control, hit 12 consistantly
-Months 3-6 - Learn basic variations such as sit downs, stand ups, foot-in-seat, and coasters
-Months 6-9 - attempts at one/no hand stunts, steering, small combos, acrobatics
-Months 9-18 - attempts at circles, 3-4 stunt combos, and handbrake usage
-Months 18-24 - attempts at circle variations (foot in seat, sit down, seat stander, ralf louis, one hand, etc.), 4-5 trick combos, burnout variations, attempts at clutching out of circles.
-Months 24-36 - attempts at advanced circle variations (no hand, 5050, hichair, combos).
Performing advanced stunts such as coaster circles/combos, and street/wall stalls.
-Months 36+ - Rider is performing variations unique to other riders on the team.
Everyone learns at their own pace, and we encourage you to get coaching early on, to keep these bad habits out of the picture.
So, you still want to be a rider?
We hope so, and we're always looking for new riders.
We encourage you to call us with your questions and concerns.
For questions about team membership please click here:
Contact Us to get in touch with team management.
Thanks and we look forward to meeting you!